Selasa, 30 Desember 2008

TEXTURED BACKGROUNDS

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

I always enjoy using textured backgrounds for fashion photo shoots. Wallpaper in old houses, curtains, or any fabric that has a certain amount of relief, or three dimensionality, can make for intriguing backgrounds. Flat, or non-textured backgrounds are not has photogenic, as there are no 'ridges' in the material to catch the light. When directional light encounters a bump or ridge in background fabric, there will always be a resultant miniscule shadow created. It is the shadows and highlights of a background that will give the appearance of depth, even in relatively flat objects such as sheets.


Remember that the appearance of depth on fabric will not be visible when light is pointed at a 90 degree angle (or straight on). You need to point the directional light at a sharp angle, 45 degrees or less. The slighter the angle, the more texture will be visible. 


Mark's photographic prints for your wall can be purchased at www.markhemmings.com
Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Selasa, 23 Desember 2008

GROUP PHOTOS

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

I was hired to photograph wrestlers for a television series, and the requirements were individual photos of each wrestler, and a group shot. Group shots can be difficult because people in the middle, and people on the ends of the group often receive inconsistent lighting. Depending on the subject matter, it may be best to photograph the models individually, and paste them into a group setting using software like Photoshop.


This process can be tedious, because you will need to cut each model away from their background. The simplest way to do this (but not always the most accurate) is to use the Magnetic Lasoo tool.

My graphic design skills are somewhat basic, and I know of many professional designers who are masters of this process (and could do a far better job than I). Do not be intimidated by this process however . . . it is a useful skill to practice and learn. The major benefit that I can see is consistent lighting for each model. It would be impossible to get this hyper-real lighting if the wrestlers were all lined up together in a group during the photograph.

This type of photographic graphic design is quite common in the movie industry. Whenever you rent a movie, take a look at the DVD cover photos, or movie posters. 90% of the time the actors were photographed in a studio at different intervals, and later placed together for the final product; a group photograph of people who were never in a group to begin with.


Mark's photographic prints for your wall can be purchased at www.markhemmings.com
Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com



Senin, 15 Desember 2008

DEFOCUSED PHOTOS

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

In 1999 I lived in Nagano, Japan, working as a photographer while my wife was working as a teacher. Every week I would take the bullet train to Tokyo, and spend time in the various subway stations learning the art of street photography. I was particularly taken with the odd and wonderful results of photographing people out-of-focus.



The results were often ethereal and dream-like; long skinny arms, legs, and necks, and due to fluorescent lighting, odd color balances.

To try this technique, always have your lens at the lowest f-number, and of course in manual focus. Overexposure is also important, as this type of photography loses it's appeal if exposed properly.

Have fun experimenting!
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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Selasa, 09 Desember 2008

HIGH CONTRAST - SHINY OBJECTS

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

I love photographing shiny, curved objects such as metal, acrylic, and glass. These objects allow for a very high contrast appearance due to the reflective material's propensity to blow-out the highlights. This simply means that the bright reflective areas of shiny material will usually be pure white, with no color or tonal information. Most of the time this situation is undesirable; we almost always want at least a little bit of shade or color, even in the brightest highlights.




Instead of taking a normally exposed photo that has excessively white shiny reflections, why not dramatically underexpose the photo? This technique will increase the appearance of contrast, and will keep tonal information in the bright white sections of the photograph. This technique will also add to the "fine art" aspect of your image.

These sleek machines are Japanese bullet trains called Shinkansen, photographed in Tokyo Station using T-Max P3200 B&W film.
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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Selasa, 02 Desember 2008

MAGAZINE STYLE PHOTOS

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

When shooting interiors for magazines, you will often use strobe lights if people are NOT in the photograph, and ambient light (windows and lightbulbs) if people ARE included in the images.



When people are in the photograph it is often advisable to have them walking, which increases the dynamic aspect of the composition. For a grounding effect, placing stationary people in the background can add to the static/dynamic balance.

If you were to use a flash for my above sample photograph, the people would have a sort of "ghost trail" moving ahead of their bodies. It does not look pleasing! Instead, the technique used is to have your camera on a tripod with no flash or strobe, and experiment with different shutter speeds (or different walking speeds), until you get a motion blur that is not too abstract, and not too still. A good shutter speed to start with is 1/2 second.

If there were no people in the photograph, studio strobes would be helpful to create a more even balance between the large volume of window light, and lesser intensity of interior lighting. While you can certainly still use models with flash or strobe lighting, they will be "frozen" in place, which may reduce the image's marketability.

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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Senin, 24 November 2008

CONTROLLING LENS FLARE

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

One of my favorite non-photoshop techniques is lens-flare. This photo was a painful procedure for me, as it was extremely cold outside. It was no doubt enjoyable for the models however, relaxing in the nice warm outdoor hot tub! I love the result however, as the steam and snow accurately give the viewer a sense of the cold air, and warm water.



It is the lens flare however that makes the photograph for me. This technique is easily done, and the results will always be unique:
1. Overexpose the photograph.
2. Do not have the sun in the composition, but place it just millimeters outside of the frame.
3. You can control (to a certain extent) how the flare will behave by moving your own physical position.
4. Take the picture! If the image is too dark, overexpose more.

This technique is easy to do, and is especially helpful for winter scenes. Make sure you do not look at sun through your viewfinder. For those of you with newer D-SLR cameras with LiveView, you can compose via the screen. Good luck!

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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Senin, 17 November 2008

BLUE/YELLOW POLARIZER

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

This tip will be old news to many of my readers, but for those who have never heard of this filter, it is worthy of a post. The Blue/Yellow polarizing filter goes by a few different names, depending on the manufacturer. They all do a similar trick however, and create either a blue tone to reflective surfaces, or a yellow tone on the same surfaces, depending on how much you rotate the lens filter. I included one of my photos to illustrate, rotated to the Yellow side of the filter:



The reflective surface in this photo is the flowing stream. The polarizing filter gave it a warm, dreamlike hue, which can save a potentially boring nature photograph. The blue version of the stream looked equally intriguing, but for my purposes I stayed with the warmer version (it was photographed for a real estate company promoting their natural surroundings).

While these filters are hyper-realistic, they are very fun to work with, and can often perform miracles on dreary days. Most filter companies offer this polarizer, and they can be purchased at any professional camera store.

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Mark's photographic prints for your wall can be purchased at www.markhemmings.com
Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Senin, 10 November 2008

EARLY MORNING SNOWFALL

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

Although we haven't had our first snowfall in my city yet, hopefully this post will encourage you to prepare for great photo opportunities in the months ahead.



The best time to capture exterior winter photographs is the morning after a snowfall. Here are some tips:
1. You only have a 20 minute window when the outdoor ambient light levels equal the light levels of the building(s) you are photographing. Thus, you should be outside and ready to photograph even when it is dark.
2. Auto exposure should be fine. The blue of the snow, and the orange of the artificial lights should evenly mix what your camera's white balance computer suggests as an appropriate color temperature.
3. Use a tripod and a remote shutter release of some sort, and set your camera to f8, in Aperture Priority mode. You may then have to adjust the +/- exposure compensation buttons to fine tune the exposure after a test shot.
4. As soon as there is a small amount of sky light, you should start shooting. At first, the building's artificial lights will be much brighter than the snow. Then a few minutes later, the photo will be balanced perfectly. Five to ten minutes after your well-balanced photo, you will find that the conditions are no longer adequate for a balanced picture. The snow will be far brighter than the building's lights, and the romantic scene will be greatly lessened due to (relatively) darker artificial exterior lights.
5. While I do not tend to use them, sometimes a softening filter can be useful to make the photo even more dreamy.
6. The only downside to this technique is the pain of waking up early on a snowy cold morning. This laborious aspect of the photo shoot wanes after you start to see the fantastic scene through your viewfinder! It is a great joy to make a photograph during a time of day that almost no one else gets to witness.

I took this photo in the picturesque village of Mt. Tremblant, in Quebec.
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 Mark's photographic prints for your wall can be purchased at www.markhemmings.com
Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Senin, 03 November 2008

FREEZING WATER

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

Today's post is very simple and short, but might not be readily known by many photographers. When you are required to photograph moving water within a steel environment such as a sink, always use a flash.



The strobe of light will stop all motion, and will dramatically enhance the stainless steel background. Normal house interior lighting is often not adequate to get a bold, sharp photo with a neutral color cast. Make sure, however, not to simply point your camera flash at the water. It should be diffused or reflected off of a very large surface. One idea is to shoot your flash into a large piece of white bristol board that is angled for the water, or another option is to shoot the flash through large diffusion material such as a bedsheet.

As always, I try to make these posts accessible to those who cannot afford professional gear. When the time comes to buy your first light kit, spend the money to get the largest softbox you can afford. The larger the softbox, the better the picture (in most cases!)

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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Senin, 27 Oktober 2008

INDUSTRIAL PHOTOGRAPHY

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

As a result of an energy boom in my city, industrial photography is now a regular part of my business. I love this type of photography because it deals with shiny steel, bold architectural lines, and very graphic, aggressive visual elements.



If you are ever in the position to take photographs in industrial areas, here are a few tips:
1. Cooler tones are almost always better than warmer tones for metal products.
2. Look for traditional, bold compositions. Experimental compositions may not work as well for this type of photography; you are ideally looking for compositional 'power' that is a result of thirds or symmetrical compositions.
3. Overcast days tend to be better for steel. There are exceptions of course, but this has been my experience.
4. Tripods are essential even on very bright days, due to the need for architecturally straight lines.
5. High contrast settings on cameras or in post processing tends to look better than normal contrast.
6. While low depth of field lens aperture options are attractive for most images, I find that industrial locations with plenty of steel look best with apertures of f8 or f11. Industrial photography is very similar to architectural photography in that sense.

And finally, keep your equipment clean! Such environments tend to wear out your equipment sooner than normal locations. Here are some more photographs from my other company, Industrial Photographic Services. Hopefully they can be of additional help to you.

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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Selasa, 21 Oktober 2008

COMPOSITIONAL ALIGNMENT

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

This interior shot of a Mexican villa was taken with a 17mm wide angle lens. When doing interior wide angle photography, it is helpful to locate a straight line in the architecture, and use this straight line as a reference point. Take a look at my photo below:

The only obvious straight line of any length is the yellow beam on the right side of the photo. By lining the edge of my camera's viewfinder with the straight wall beam, I was able to get an accurate composition. Keep an eye out for straight lines, either vertical or horizontal, to use as guides. If your camera has the option of turning on a grid display within the viewfinder, it would be wise to make use of it.

Some people have had success with bubble levels that fit on a camera's hotshoe, but I have found that the bubble is too small to allow for great accuracy. If all else fails however, there are always straightening tools in Photoshop. It is best though to get the photo composed perfectly the first time, as Photoshop straightening will slightly reduce the photo's resolution.

The room at the top of the stairs in this photo can be yours for a week! James Wilson and I are leading a photography tour to the Spanish Colonial town of San Miguel, and we are staying in this lovely Mexican villa. For more information on our international photography tours, please click here:
http://www.markhemmings.com/japan_photo_tour/index.htm

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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Selasa, 14 Oktober 2008

NIKON D90 REVIEW

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

Awhile back I did a review of the Nikon D300, and concluded that for professionals it was an ideal back-up camera, but also a very acceptable option for professional and amateur travel photography. In the past I would take a very large camera while traveling (such as the D2x), which increased the weight I had to carry, and made me quite conspicuous on the streets. With the advent of the Nikon D300 I had a smaller camera body, but with a great 14-bit chip to record images that had challenging lighting.

The Nikon D90 is my new travel companion for a number of reasons. Here are a few:
1. It is inexpensive compared to similar 12 MP DSLR's
2. It is very lightweight, and small, which is great for traveling
3. It takes SD cards which are more readily available than CF, and are cheaper
4. While not 14-bit, the 12-bit sensor creates imagery almost as good as the Pro D3
5. It records manual focus HD video, great for travel locations

The video has some issues that would keep it from being used professionally, however it is excellent for creating fine art short films, travel videos, and family films. I have had great success using a 50mm lens shooting video at f1.4, which gives the final product a more film-like appearance as opposed to the plasticky look of video.

The less than $1200 price tag makes this a great camera for all levels. Professionals will find it helpful as a back-up in case of emergencies, travel photographers will like it because of the quality and because it is a "safer" camera to have on the streets, and amateurs will like it because it is simple to use and very effective. To sum up: It is cheap enough to not be a disaster if it was broken or stolen, and good enough for many professional applications. That mix makes the camera ideal for travel, as you need both elements (quality and expendability) for a successful trip.

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 Mark's photographic prints for your wall can be purchased at www.markhemmings.com
Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Senin, 06 Oktober 2008

OVERCAST SKIES

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

Overcast days are wonderful for Fall foliage, but the addition of that dull gray blob of a sky can seriously detract from your great image. Why not just crop out the sky? If the sky is not an integral part of your composition, or the desire of your art director, just get rid of it (or leave a small slice like the sample photo). Give it a try! Your photo will be much better for it.

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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Senin, 29 September 2008

REMOTE SHUTTER RELEASES

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

Proper street photography is always unplanned and spontaneous. I subscribe to this ethos 95% of the time, except for the following scenario: a perfect location with no people around! This old picturesque part of Kyoto is called Ishibe Koji, and it is a great delight for exploring both night and day. There were no people around (unbelievably!) when I was there, which was disappointing due to the great scene. So I set up my camera on a tripod, composed the shot, and attached a remote cable release. After waiting about 10 minutes eventually this well-suited and unaware model walked into my frame. I quickly took the picture and got what I wanted.

The advantage of using a remote shutter release (either cable or infrared) is its unobtrusive means of tripping the shutter. In fact, you don't even need to be looking through the camera, just trip the shutter as soon as someone enters the scene.

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Senin, 22 September 2008

BALANCING INTERIOR LIGHT

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

Interior photography can be very challenging, as you are often forced to photograph during the worst possible times. The ideal scenario is low, warm, directional sunlight flooding the interior of the location with soft pleasing light. Yet this may only happen 3 days out of the week, and only for a brief 1 hour window! That is why interior photographers need to learn how to work proficiently even in the worst conditions, such as rain, fog, unflattering sunlight, and harsh interior lights.

The sample photo is an image that I took at a boutique hotel in the Laurentian mountains. The day was overcast and dreary, and somewhat uninspiring. The challenge was to get the interior lamp-light to match the intensity of the exterior light. Often you will have either an interior light that is not nearly bright enough compared to the outside natural light, or you will have an evening photo shoot where the interior lamp illumination is far too bright relative the the exterior evening light. If the latter is your challenge, you can either switch light bulbs to a lower watt bulb, or you can simply purchase a very simple tool called a cord dimmer switch. This useful addition to your gear collection is very inexpensive and highly useful. The cord is about $15, and works as an intermediate extension cord between the wall socket and the lamp's own power cord. This extension cord has a dimmer switch built in, so you can adjust the light bulb's illumination to balance with the exterior light. You can purchase these dimmers at most hardware stores, and I just recently saw some on Ikea's website. Do a product search for "Cord dimmer switch".

Conclusion: Keep a few high wattage household bulbs with your gear, in case you need more light power when you are photographing at your location. If you find the high wattage bulb is too strong compared to external light levels, simply lower the light intensity with the dimmer switch. (Note - I haven't tried this technique with the newer household fluorescent bulbs).

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Senin, 15 September 2008

THE 50mm PRIME LENS

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

For readers who have been with me from the start, please forgive me for revisiting the 50mm prime lens. I believe the lens is great enough to warrant an additional posting.

Prime (or fixed) lenses do not have any zoom; they are locked into a viewing angle that forces you to physically move back or forth to get the right composition. While many people would find this inconvenient, the advantages to prime lenses far outweigh the few drawbacks.

Canon and Nikon both make excellent 50mm lenses with f-stop setting of f1.2, f1.4, f1.8. 50mm prime lenses are great in low-light situations, they are very small and portable, they are extremely sharp and relatively inexpensive, and they are light weight compared to many zoom lenses. One could also argue that they will last much longer than zoom lenses, as there are fewer movable parts within the lens construction.

This particular image was taken at a hotel spa with poor lighting. The interior was dark and dreary, with fluorescent lights and only a small window to the outside. I was confronted with the challenge of lighting the model in the cramped space, and after a few unsuccessful attempts at using studio lights, I pulled out the 50mm lens.

If you are in a similar situation with less than ideal lighting, yet there is at least one window, try the following:

1. Place the camera on a steady tripod, and use a remote shutter release to avoid camera shake. If you do not have a remote shutter release, use your camera's self timer (also called a 10 second timer on some models).

2. Place the model so that the window is on the side and slightly behind him or her. The reason the window should be behind the model is to illuminate the background for a soft, pleasing look.

3. Place a large reflector on the other side of the model, closer to you camera. The reflector should be bouncing window light onto the darker side of the model.

4. Set your camera to Aperture Priority, and the lens to it's lowest f-stop number. If you have a 50mm lens, set it to f1.4 or f1.8, depending on the model that you have.

5. Turn off all the lights in the room. This is essential, as you do not want to mix different color temperatures. Window light is normal daylight, whereas interior light bulbs are either tungsten or fluorescent, which are yellowish and greenish respectively.

6. Your camera's white balance can be set to "cloudy", which will warm up the potentially cool daylight coming in from the window(s).

7. If the room is particularly dark, the shutter speed will be very slow. For this photo, the shutter stayed open for 3 seconds just to get enough light to fill the room. That is why it is essential to trip the shutter without touching the camera. Remember to ask the models to remain perfectly still.

After you take the photo, you should get a pleasing image similar to my sample photograph, with a low depth of field appearance, and soft, warm backlighting. Other great prime lenses that are similar to the 50mm lens is the 105mm, 85mm, 35mm, 28mm, and 20mm. Lenses that are wider than 20mm tend to be quite expensive, but equally proficient. If you are on a tight budget, do not discount the idea of purchasing used prime lenses. I would only encourage used lens purchases from professional camera stores however, as you will have at least a few weeks of warranty if something goes wrong with the lens.

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 Mark's photographic prints for your wall can be purchased at www.markhemmings.com
Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Senin, 08 September 2008

TONED PHOTOGRAPHS

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

Today's lesson is very simple and short; if you want to photograph an object that has great design characteristics, but is bland in color and tone, try adding a bluish color cast to the photo. This technique is especially useful for metallic objects that have lost their shine.

Simply turn your white balance setting to the "lightbulb" icon, which is also called Incandescent or Tungsten. This will give your photograph new life, and give you a new avenue of expression!

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Senin, 01 September 2008

INTRODUCTION TO LAYERS

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

For those of you who are already well versed in Layers, you may find this information of little value. However, if you are just now starting to learn the value of Layers in Photoshop or other programs, I would encourage you to keep learning!

I created this sample photo to give you an idea of what is possible utilizing layers:

#1. This is the base exposure, which also included the cobblestone road. At the time, there were no people walking on the street.

#2. As my camera was firmly fixed on my tripod, I took photo #2 of the person walking down the sidewalk. The camera exposure remained the same as the first photo, which is essential (manual exposure for this process is very helpful).

#3. I waiting a little longer for this next group of people to walk into frame. Again, they were exposed with the same amount of light as #1 and #2.

#4. This fourth photo was of a horse and carriage that went by. That part of the photo seemed empty, so the addition of the wagon was very much welcomed.

#5. This part of the photo was incredibly overexposed. It was too bright and too harsh, so I underexposed the photograph to even things out.

In Photoshop, I now had 5 separate photographs available to cut and paste. The final image is a well-exposed, relatively dynamic travel image. There are many great on-line resources on how to actually create Layers in Photoshop, so do a search and start opening up your horizons! I have found that the greatest advantage of Layers (for me) is the ability to get even exposure throughout the whole photograph, and add people to the photograph in a very natural way.

Finally, for those of you who are valiantly protesting in your mind regarding the ethics of this type of photo manipulation, it is time for you to realize that almost every advertising image you see in the entire world is manipulated to some degree. If you don't don't ascribe truth to advertising photographs to begin with, you won't have those ethical questions to deal with.

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Senin, 25 Agustus 2008

COLOR HUE PERCEPTION

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

In the past, a great frustration of mine when dealing with yellow subjects was the color's propensity to shift toward a greenish color cast. This was not necessarily the fault of the subject, or the color itself; mainly it was a result of different devices (monitors, printers, scanners, cameras) interpreting colors in different ways. I find that often, but not always, subjects that appear true yellow on Mac screens have a slight greenish tinge when the same image is viewed on PC screens.

There is an entire industry centered around the quest for color consistency. If you do not have the means to purchase color calibrating tools for your monitors, you may have to do it the old fashioned way; check your image on as many different platforms, screens, and browsers as possible.

I work on Mac computers, but I also have a PC which I use to view my images for color correction purposes. For images that will be viewed on the web, I will often see what the pictures look like on Firefox, Safari, Explorer, and maybe other lesser used browsers.

Even though this may seem like a laborious process, after a few tries you will intuitively know how your own screen's colors match with your viewers around the world, and you will be able to color correct your images accordingly. For example, if your yellows appear slightly greenish, add a bit of magenta to counter the green.

It may be wise for you to memorize the color wheel, as it will speed up your editing time. You will, for example, know immediately that if your photo is too reddish, you will need to add cyan. For a quick overview of the color wheel that photographer use (different for painters!), see below:

Red is opposite to Cyan
Green is opposite to Magenta
Blue is opposite to Yellow

Thanks to Adrienn Nagy for showing me this 1960's modern cottage located on the Maros river, in Hungary.

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Senin, 18 Agustus 2008

WIDE ANGLE PERSPECTIVE

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

If you desire to create a graphic, or metaphor-laden image, try using a very wide angle lens. The perspective distortion on wide angle lenses removes the subject from reality, and may take your image from documentary to illustration.

This technique is especially evident and useful when the lens focus is on a part of the subject that protrudes, or is extended radically toward the camera lens (see attached photo). That which is closest to the wide angle lens will appear accentuated and large, in relation to the background.

This illustrative photo was a group project by Sue Furlong, Lauchlan Ough, and myself, commissioned by the International Youth Media Summit, in Belgrade, Serbia.Email this Blog to a friend.


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Senin, 11 Agustus 2008

BLUE COLOR CAST

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

This may be obvious to most readers, but if you have subject matter that is inherently depressing, choose a blue color cast. This image of a bullet ridden building (kept un-repaired as a monument I believe) has a haunting and sad feel. I chose an incandescent or tungsten white balance setting, which on most cameras is signified by a little light bulb icon.

Give this color balance option a try, and you may find that it adds more mood and atmosphere to many of your photos.

The building is in the castle district in Budapest, Hungary.

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Senin, 04 Agustus 2008

WARM/COOL TONES

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

Yellow and Blue are opposites on the photographer's color wheel. I often try to locate images that have a mix of these two colors, similar to the attached sample image of Buda Castle. While not specifically Yellow and Blue, warm tones (yellow cast) are displayed by the interior castle lights, and the cool tones (blue cast) are displayed by the immediate frontal exterior. When the sun has set, building exteriors become cool-toned, while interiors usually maintain a warm toned, incandescent look.

Architectural photographers make use of this light color mixture frequently. You can do it too, by using a tripod with a cable or remote release. Take the photo after sunset, when the ambient sky light illuminating the building's exterior is roughly the same brightness as the interior light bulbs.

Thanks to Sue Furlong who clicked the shutter for me on this picture. Being a photographer there are very few pictures of myself, so I decided to get a photo taken in Budapest at this wonderful castle cafe. The view in the background is of the Parliament Building on the Pest side of the river.

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Senin, 28 Juli 2008

PEOPLE PHOTOS AT NIGHT

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

A friend asked me to do some portfolio shots while I was in a different town. I didn't have my studio gear, so I had to rely on street lights. Here are a few hints for shooting using street lights at night:

1. Sodium or Mercury vapor street lights are very difficult to color balance properly. Black and white photographs are far easier to deal with.

2. The model needs to be in a position of looking upward. As the streetlights are far overhead, deep shadows will be the result if the model is looking straight ahead or downward. An upward look will illuminate the face.

3. Have the model a few meters behind a street light. As in the previous instruction, you want the street light to evenly illuminate the face, instead of the light illuminating the model in a vertical fashion (which creates shadows).

4. While street lights are very bright, you will still have a difficult time with camera shake. These types of photo shoots are best with models who can pose naturally while remaining still.

5. Set your camera to Aperture Priority, with the lowest "f" number. Secure the tripod, and adjust your ISO if you feel the shutter speed is too long to create a sharp image. Do not increase your ISO too much however, as you will get a poor quality image that will make skin look blotchy.

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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Selasa, 22 Juli 2008

NO TRIPODS ALLOWED!

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

Many great buildings of the world allow photography, but no tripod usage. Using a flash is often worthless, so instead, try the following the next time you are in a location such as the attached photo of St. Stephen's Basilica in Budapest:

With a wide angle lens, set your camera to Aperture Priority, and the lens f-stop number to f8. Set your lens to manual focus, and focus the lens to infinity. Place the camera on self-timer mode. Now, place your camera on the floor, in the middle of the room, hall, church, or whatever interior you are photographing. The lens should be pointing to the ceiling, lying on its back. You are now ready to release the shutter. Wait for the self-timer to kick in, and you will have a very sharp and precise photograph.

If you do not want a perfectly vertical interior photograph, use a purse, jacket, or any other soft material to prop up the front of your lens. This will give you an angled photograph. For a near-vertical shot place a small strip of fabric under the camera body (instead of the lens), which will give you a less-than perpendicular angle, similar to my attached example photo.

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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Senin, 14 Juli 2008

FRAMED PORTRAITS

I am currently in Hungary, teaching photography and filmaking to international students. We have visited many fascinating locations, including this wonderful Greek-Catholic church. I asked through a translator if I could create a portrait of the priest, and he was happy to oblige.

This post is simply an encouragement to seek out backgrounds or surroundings that can frame your subject in a centered fashion. I love this type of framing device, and feel it often conveys a great sense of power and authority.

Good luck!

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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Minggu, 06 Juli 2008

EMPTY SPACE

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

While it is often not advisable to take photographs like the attached sample image, in certain circumstances strange compositions can be quite valuable as art photography. I took this photo in Amsterdam, during a time when people from every house would open their windows and play a musical instrument. The melody was prearranged by a central conductor on a tall crane. The sound was haunting and beautiful.

I felt that the surreal aspects of the musical endeavor required an equally surreal composition. Giving more weight to the clouds encourages the viewer to ask more questions of the artist, which is always a good thing (regardless of a negative or positive response).

Experiment with different compositions, and don't feel bad when your photography club or association judges you harshly. A lot of the time the judges wish that they too could express such freedom in their work!

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Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com

Senin, 30 Juni 2008

STOCK PHOTOGRAPHY

Dear reader, if this entry or my other blog entries don't answer your specific photography questions, you can call me on the phone anytime for advice by clicking here.

If you are hoping to get represented by a stock photography agent, it is often wise to wait until you have at least 500 print-worthy photographs.

One type of photo that should be included in an initial submission to an agency are pictures that can work as metaphors. As with my image of the Rubik's Cube, there are many ways this photo could be published. The "pool" of potential clients is quite large concerning this photo, as it can illustrate so many varied written articles and advertisements.

For greater agency sales, look for photos that can appeal to the varied needs of art directors and media buyers around the world.

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 Mark's photographic prints for your wall can be purchased at www.markhemmings.com
Mark can be hired as a photographer or filmmaker via www.hemmingshouse.com